June 15, 2011 at 5:35 am #852
hey all, been lurking on these forums for awhile now and finally become a member. now im starting my build up on a TSB car.
was originally planning on doing a mild 355 with some gas but changed plans now….
picked this up local for a good price…
motivation for the engine… gt4708
plans are redo ls1 with arp main and head studs, h beam rods and forgies, a/w cooler setup, e85, th400 and a 6point cage… most of all keep it street friendly and stealth
getting help from Advanced Performance Machining, Fred at Turbologic, BGP Motorsport and some mates in various areas of the industry. should be a good street car
SteveJune 15, 2011 at 11:58 am #6275
you going iron block? That turbo will send the standard block straight to hell methinks.
P.s. cool build, I think the TSB class is going to need to be renamed the commodore class :pJune 15, 2011 at 12:46 pm #6276
haha. yeah, had a look at the block i got, needs a resleeve on one cylinder so im going cast iron. just hard to find one, no new ones coming into the country til end of year. gunna try to get one sent from a shop in the states or find a short block lq4-lq9 and get it sent here.
yeah, TSB is gunna get abit kaotic!June 16, 2011 at 12:55 am #6278
Try looking around some of the US performance manufacturers and see if you can get an assembled performance short motor with pistons and rods and the hard work done, they are often really competitive on price due to competition in the US. If your paying all that freight you may as well get a better motor for your money 😀June 16, 2011 at 3:08 am #6280
thanks for that, i have been looking but in saying that… you gotta find one thats interested in sending it plus getting it done, they dont wanna deal with us Aussie’s because of the dollar atm lol. no rush really
sorting out the manifolds too, good fun plumbing this up lol.June 16, 2011 at 3:22 am #6281
another great TSB turbo build, keep up the great work 😉June 16, 2011 at 12:07 pm #6292
cheers mate fingers crossed it all gets done soon tho. im keen as to race!June 16, 2011 at 1:02 pm #6297
cheers mate fingers crossed it all gets done soon tho. im keen as to race!
i know exactly how u feel 😀June 17, 2011 at 6:45 am #6304
id be right if i didnt have my kids asking when they get to see me race it lol a long way to go
at this time, im looking for some where to get my 6 point done, get that done first so then all im doing is engine and driveline after january.June 18, 2011 at 4:52 am #6320
Should be easy to find someone in the Gong to do it, ask Simon.June 23, 2011 at 9:51 am #6378
yeah, if i get stuck ill be sure to ask him cheers
car is now in my garage and shall begin to fix all the electrics and sort afew other bits and pieces on it. going to sort out the mounting of the a/w cooler and its resoviour, fuel cell, battery and the lines. car still got rego so i wanna drive it til i have to renew in january and start.
this is how i want mine setup. obviously will be different and on other side of the car too.
June 23, 2011 at 10:34 am #6386
To fully utilize the benefit of w2a cooler you need quite a large unit to be stable the whole run, or a very large water reservoir for ice, all of which adds weight, complexity and significant cost. I would stick with a large good quality a2a like an ARE 600x300x109 which will fit quite easily in the front of the VL and piping quite simple and straightforward. Everything has it’s application, I have used W2A successfully on one big hp car, but it weighed over 150lb with water and cost about 5k with piping, tank, pump, lines and labour 😯
6BOOSTJune 23, 2011 at 12:45 pm #6392
thanks for the advice, i hear ya but for me its something alittle different and i wanna try it out, my setup owes me stuff all anyway lol otherwise i wouldnt be doing it and go A2A.
i plan to use a 20L tank in the boot, ive got a rule 2300 bilge pump, 2 water pumps to run inline (one to the front and one to the back), using my stock vl air unit as heat exchange, then just need a core and end tanks knocked up. a very similar setup is being used on my mates 1500hp lj torana, works quite well and keeps those intank temps quite cool. but like i said, it owes me stuff all, be lucky to owe me $250. see what it can do for me on a street car. apart from racing it down the track i plan to give it a hidding at events like summernats, powercruise, supernats and skid pan days.
my vx was quite good at it but suffered from the supercharging con’s (throwing drivebelts, busting idler pullies) and intake temps were alittle high and she got heat soaked, so i figured this might be worth a try.June 24, 2011 at 4:57 am #6400
Remember these are pressure vessels, ensure all welding is checked for quality, APSA follows ANDRA safety rules, so if the intercooler is inside the cabin then it will need a bolistic blanket, I have seen photos of where these have failed & the damage thay cause, if your mounting it in the foot well, that is potentialy at spud height, you don’t want to blow them off!
Mine is mounted on the passenger seat with the planket, I have a PT3000, as 6Boost has stated, these are a large unit.
Joe from Profab has his mounted where the rear seat is positioned.
Downfall with this type of intercooler is the holes you have to cut in your firewall, harder when you have all the standard street trim in the engine bay.
VaderJune 24, 2011 at 1:25 pm #6411
Darth, thanks for the info. yeah i have been quite concerned with that. i will not be doing the welding on the cooler as my skills are that great lol or might try and hunt down a PT unit. yeah, i plan to wrap it up nice and tight dont think the wife and kids would be too happy if it came and got me lol.
i figure if i jam it up in the foot well and brace it up aswell as the blanket then it should be nice and safe. reason for this is just engine bay space is an issue, then it becomes messy and tight and impractical to work on at the track. i can put it in the engine bay but then the size is compromised and then becomes a bomb in a sense of how much pressure it will be taking on such a small inner area. my mates is in his bay and has used 5mm plate steel on it with 3.5″ in and out lets.
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